The quick answer
Put your router near the middle of your home, on a shelf or table off the floor, and out in the open: not in a cabinet, a closet or behind the TV. Keep it away from metal, mirrors, fish tanks and the microwave, and in a two-story home keep it on the main floor, not in the basement.
Then check the result: run a phone speed test at the same three or four spots before and after the move. The tests take about 10 minutes, plus a few minutes to move the router.
The best place for your router
The best place for a Wi-Fi router is near the center of your home, on a shelf or table off the floor, in the open, with as few walls and as little metal as possible between it and the rooms you use.
Wi-Fi spreads out from the router in every direction, and it gets weaker with distance and with everything it has to pass through. The router makers we checked (TP-Link, Netgear, Linksys, eero and Google) agree on the basics: central, in the open and off the floor. They differ only on how high. Treat these as the rules:
- Central. Put the router near the middle of the area you want covered. TP-Link says a router against an outside wall leaves the far side of the home with a much weaker signal, and Netgear says to avoid corners.
- Off the floor. Linksys says a router on the floor sends much of its signal into the ground. The makers’ heights differ: TP-Link suggests about 1 to 1.5 feet, Linksys at least a few feet, Google eye level, and eero halfway between the floor and the ceiling. We think an open shelf or tabletop between table height and eye level is the safe pick.
- On the main floor. Linksys calls the basement the worst place for a router, because concrete and dense walls block the signal on its way upstairs. In a two-story home, Netgear recommends a central spot on the first floor.
- In the open. Don’t hide the router in a cabinet, a closet, a media console or behind large furniture. Linksys, Netgear, eero and TP-Link all say it weakens the signal, and Linksys and Netgear add that a closed space can make the router overheat.
- Cool and out of the sun. TP-Link and eero say direct sunlight and nearby heat sources hurt performance.
The modem usually has to stay near the jack where your internet line comes in, but the router doesn’t. Google points out that the router’s position depends on where the modem is and how long your cables are, so a longer Ethernet cable between the two is often all it takes. If you can move both out of the basement into a central spot, eero says that one change improves the speed of your whole network. If your modem and router are one box from your internet provider, you’re tied to that jack, and the fixes in the last section help more.
What to keep your router away from
Keep your router away from metal, mirrors, water, thick walls and other electronics, because they block, reflect or drown out the Wi-Fi signal.
| Problem | Why it hurts | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Microwave oven | NIST measures microwave oven emissions at 2.45 GHz, inside the 2.4 GHz band Wi-Fi uses | Keep the router out of the kitchen if you can |
| Cordless phones, baby monitors, Bluetooth gear | They share the 2.4 GHz band (eero, Linksys, Netgear) | Give them some distance from the router |
| TV and other large electronics | TP-Link and Netgear list them as interference | Don’t put the router behind or on top of the TV |
| Metal: refrigerators, solid metal doors | TP-Link says metal can block the signal completely | Keep a clear path between the router and the rooms you use |
| Mirrors and large glass surfaces | They reflect or block the signal (TP-Link, Netgear) | Don’t put the router next to a mirror |
| Water: fish tanks, washing machines, water heaters | Wi-Fi doesn’t pass well through water (Linksys) | Keep the tank out of the signal’s path |
| Brick, stone, concrete and plaster walls | Dense walls are hard for Wi-Fi to get through (eero, TP-Link) | Put the router on the same side of these walls as you |
| A second router, such as your provider’s | Two routers close together compete for the same channels (Linksys) | Turn off the Wi-Fi on the one you don’t use |
TP-Link says a router can hardly get through three thick concrete walls, and eero says older homes with plaster, lath or chicken wire in the walls are especially hard on Wi-Fi. Doors help: eero says placing units near doors may help, because wood is easier for the signal to get through than dense walls.
Skip the aluminum-foil “Wi-Fi reflectors” you see on social media. Netgear says they scatter the signal and cause interference instead of boosting it.
If your router has antennas, point them up
If your router has external antennas, point them straight up for Wi-Fi on one floor, and angle them for coverage across floors.
TP-Link recommends vertical antennas for coverage on a single level, and an angle of about 30 degrees when the Wi-Fi also has to reach the floor above or below. In TP-Link’s own test with a wall-mounted router, vertical antennas gave a phone at the same height a clearly stronger signal than antennas tilted 45 degrees or laid flat.
If your router has no external antennas, there’s nothing to adjust: set it on a stable, flat surface such as a table or shelf, as eero recommends for its units. Eero says they send their signal mostly along the surface they sit on, a bit more upward than downward, which is one more reason to keep them off the floor.
2.4 GHz, 5 GHz and 6 GHz: which band reaches where
The 2.4 GHz band reaches farthest, 5 GHz is faster but shorter-range, and 6 GHz is the fastest and least crowded but has the shortest range and needs a Wi-Fi 6E or Wi-Fi 7 device.
Most routers broadcast on two or three bands at once, and your phone picks one. The bands behave differently through walls, which is why the same spot can be fine on one band and weak on another:
| 2.4 GHz | 5 GHz | 6 GHz | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Range | Longest; best through walls and floors | Medium | Shortest |
| Speed | Slowest | Fast | Fastest |
| Congestion | Most crowded: only 3 non-overlapping channels, shared with microwaves, cordless phones and Bluetooth | Less crowded: 23 non-overlapping channels | Least crowded: the FCC opened 1,200 MHz of new spectrum here in 2020 |
| Which devices use it | The most devices, including many smart home gadgets that work only on 2.4 GHz | Most modern Wi-Fi devices | Only Wi-Fi 6E and Wi-Fi 7 devices, with a router that supports 6 GHz |
| Best for (our pick) | Smart home gadgets and far-off rooms | Streaming and gaming | The fastest devices, close to the router |
The higher the frequency, the shorter the reach, because higher frequencies lose strength faster and have a harder time getting through walls and floors (TP-Link, Netgear). The 6 GHz band makes up for it with room: when the FCC opened it to Wi-Fi in April 2020, it said the move would increase the spectrum available for Wi-Fi by nearly five times.
That’s also why placement matters most for your fastest devices: the 5 and 6 GHz bands they use are the ones walls weaken most. Some systems, such as Google’s Nest Wifi, use one network name for all bands and steer each device to the best one, so you don’t have to choose. Google notes that many other routers broadcast a separate network for each band, and then you pick the band yourself.
If you have a smart plug or other gadget that needs 2.4 GHz, our first smart plug guide explains how to set it up.
Test your placement in 10 minutes
The best way to know whether a new spot helps is to measure it: run a phone speed test at the same spots before and after the move. The tests take about 10 minutes, plus a few minutes to move the router.
Step 1: Pick three or four test spots
Choose the places where you actually use Wi-Fi, and write them down in order, so you can test the same spots twice.
Good test spots are the couch, your desk, your bed and the room where the Wi-Fi is worst. Add one spot next to the router: it shows the best your connection can do, and gives you something to compare the other rooms with.
Install a speed test app if you don’t have one. Speedtest by Ookla is free for Android and iOS and shows download speed, upload speed and ping (the delay, in milliseconds). Pause big downloads and streaming on other devices while you test, so they don’t skew the numbers.
Step 2: Test before you move anything
Run one speed test at each spot and write down the download speed, the upload speed and the ping.
Hold the phone the way you normally use it, and stand or sit in exactly the spot you wrote down. Make sure the phone is on your home Wi-Fi, not on mobile data: turn mobile data off while you test, or check that the Wi-Fi icon shows at the top of the screen.
We think one run per spot is enough, as long as you test the same way every time; if a number looks odd, run that spot again.
Step 3: Move the router
Move the router to the best spot you have, using the rules above: central, off the floor, out in the open and away from metal, water and the microwave.
- Turn off the router and unplug its power cable.
- If it needs to go farther from the modem, connect the two with a longer Ethernet cable.
- Set the router on a shelf or table, away from walls and other electronics. Don’t put it behind or on top of the TV.
- If it has external antennas, point them straight up, or angle them about 30 degrees for a multi-story home.
- Plug it back in and wait until its lights show that it’s online again.
Moving it a few feet out of a cabinet or off the floor counts. When a Google Wifi unit has a weak connection, Google’s first suggestion is to move it within the same room.
Step 4: Test the same spots again
Repeat the test at the same spots, in the same order, holding the phone the same way.
Write the new numbers next to the old ones. The spot next to the router may barely change, and that’s normal: it already had the strongest signal. The rooms that were weak are the ones to watch.
Step 5: Compare and decide
Keep the new spot if your weakest rooms got faster and none of your important spots got noticeably worse.
If one room improved and another got worse, try a small adjustment: a few feet toward the room that lost speed, a higher shelf, or a clearer path through a doorway. Test only the spots that changed. If your weakest room is still too slow after a good move, your home probably needs more than one Wi-Fi source, and the next section shows which kind.
When moving the router isn’t enough
When the best spot still leaves a dead zone, add a second Wi-Fi source. We think you should wire it in with Ethernet if you can, use a mesh system for a larger home, and use an extender for one weak room.
| Your situation | Our recommendation | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Your home has Ethernet in the walls, or you can run a cable | A second Wi-Fi unit wired to the router with Ethernet | Eero says wireless links are typically slower than wired connections and more prone to interference |
| A larger home, several floors or several weak rooms | A mesh system | Several units that work as one network, so you’re never far from one (Google) |
| One weak room in an otherwise good home | A Wi-Fi extender | Netgear, which sells both extenders and mesh systems, calls it quick and affordable, though less effective than mesh in large spaces |
Wired backhaul means the second unit gets its connection to the router over an Ethernet cable instead of over the air, so the link between the two units isn’t weakened by walls or by sharing airtime with your devices. Your devices’ own connection to each unit still depends on the walls between them. The second unit can be a mesh unit or an access point, a box that turns a wired connection into Wi-Fi; TP-Link’s extenders can work this way in access point (AP) mode. If you have the cable, we think this is the best fix of the three.
A mesh system is a set of two or more Wi-Fi units that act as a single network with one name. Google recommends placing each extra unit about halfway toward the area that needs better Wi-Fi, no more than two rooms from the router or another unit. Eero suggests 20 to 30 feet between units, and no more than 50 feet.
An extender repeats your router’s signal into a weak area. Netgear notes that an extender shares bandwidth with your router, which is why it suits one problem room better than a whole house. Put it about halfway between the router and the dead zone, as TP-Link recommends, not in the dead zone itself: like a mesh unit, it can only pass on the signal it receives.
If something does not work
Should a Wi-Fi router be placed high or low?
High, or at least off the floor. Linksys says a router on the floor sends much of its signal into the ground. The makers' suggested heights differ. TP-Link says about 1 to 1.5 feet, Linksys at least a few feet, Google eye level, and eero halfway between the floor and the ceiling. We think any open shelf or tabletop between table height and eye level works.
Where should I position the antennas on my Wi-Fi router?
Straight up if you need Wi-Fi on one floor. TP-Link recommends vertical antennas for coverage on a single level, and angling them about 30 degrees when the Wi-Fi has to reach the floors above or below. If your router has no external antennas, there's nothing to adjust; eero recommends a stable, flat surface such as a table or shelf.
How far from a TV should a router be?
No router maker gives an exact distance. TP-Link and Netgear both list TVs among the electronics to keep your router away from, so don't put it behind the TV or on top of it. Google does suggest a shelf or TV stand as an open, off-the-floor spot. If the TV stand is your only open shelf, we think a few feet to the side of the TV beats behind it.
Where should I put a Wi-Fi extender?
About halfway between the router and the room with weak Wi-Fi, where the router's signal is still strong. TP-Link suggests 25 to 40 feet from the router for extenders with external antennas, 20 to 35 feet for models with internal antennas, at about the router's height and away from mirrors, metal and microwaves. Don't put it in the dead zone itself, because it can only pass on the signal it receives.
Can a Wi-Fi router go anywhere in the house?
Almost anywhere with a power outlet, as long as a cable can reach it from your modem. The modem has to stay near the cable, fiber or phone jack, but a longer Ethernet cable lets you move the router itself to a more central spot. Eero says that moving the modem and router out of the basement into a central spot improves the speed of your whole network.
Sources
- TP-Link, Router Antenna Position and Placement Guide (central placement, height, antennas, interference, cabinets, heat)
- TP-Link, What physical impediments can interfere with the wireless network? (walls, mirrors, metal)
- TP-Link, The differences between 2.4GHz and 5GHz Wireless (range, channels, microwaves and cordless phones)
- TP-Link, How to Place Your TP-Link Wi-Fi Extender (halfway, distances, height, AP mode over Ethernet)
- eero Support, Where should I place my eeros?
- Google Home and Nest Help, Where to place your Wifi devices
- Google Home and Nest Help, How Nest Wifi and Google Wifi 2.4, 5 and 6 GHz bands work
- Linksys Support, Where you place your router matters more than you think
- Linksys Support, Differentiating the 5 GHz and 2.4 GHz frequency bands
- NETGEAR, How to Improve WiFi Signal - Best Router Placement
- NETGEAR Support, Where should I put my NETGEAR wireless access point? (fish tanks, mirrors, metal)
- NETGEAR, Difference Between 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz, and 6 GHz Wireless Frequencies
- Wi-Fi Alliance, Wi-Fi generations (Wi-Fi 6 in the 6 GHz band; Wi-Fi 7 across 2.4, 5 and 6 GHz)
- FCC, FCC Adopts New Rules for the 6 GHz Band, Unleashing 1,200 Megahertz of Spectrum for Unlicensed Use (April 23, 2020)
- NIST, Microwave oven interference measurements at 2.4 GHz
- Ookla, Speedtest apps for Android and iOS